The second Raphael Room is perhaps the highlight, the Stanza della Segnatura (1508–11), containing Raphael's famous School of Athens (pictured above).
This mythical gathering of the philosophers from across the ages is also a catalog of the Renaissance, with many philosophers actually bearing portraits of Raphael's greatest fellow artists.
These include his mentor the architect Bramante (on the right as balding Euclid, bent over as he draws on a chalkboard), Leonardo da Vinci (as Plato, the bearded patriarch in the center pointing heavenward), and Raphael himself (looking out at us from the lower right corner next to his white-robed buddy Il Sodoma).
In the midst of painting this masterpiece, Raphael took a sneak peek at what his heretofore rival Michelangelo was busy painting on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel down the hall.
He was so impressed that he returned to the School of Athens and added in a sulking portrait of Michelangelo (as Heraclitus) sitting on the steps in his stonecutter's boots. (We know he added it because his original cartoon, or full-scale preparatory drawing, survived.)
It was a true moment of growth for the cocky young master, who realized even he could learn from the genius of another. In fact, he soon adapted his style and color palate, reflecting Michelangelo's influence.
Another important fresco here is the Disputation of the Sacrament, with three more portraits. Toward the middle of the right side, half-hidden behind a golden-robed church dignitary, stands a dour-looking man in red with a laurel-leaf crown—the Tuscan poet Dante, whose Inferno revolutionized Italian literature by using the Tuscan vernacular rather than Latin, and became the basis for the Italian language.
Look also on the far left for a pious-looking man in black with just a wisp of white hair remaining—it's a portrait of the monastic painter Fra' Angelico, whose great work in Rome lies just after these rooms. Bramante (again) bends over the railing in front and thumps a book (probably arguing some finer point of architecture).
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Viale Vaticano (on the north side of the Vatican City walls, between where Via Santamaura and the Via Tunisi staircase hit Viale Vaticano; about a 5–10 minute walk around the walls from St. Peter's).
tel. +39-06-6988-4676 or +39-06-6988-3145
www.museivaticani.va or www.vatican.va
Mon–Sat 9am–6pm (last entry: 4pm)
* May 2–July 25 and Sept 5–Oct 31 also open Fridays 7–11pm with advance booking (» more)
* Open the last Sun of each month 9:30am–2pm—and it's free!... and terribly crowded
* For other closed dates, see "tips" below
€16
Roma Pass: No
Tickets: Select Italy or Viator
Bus: 49; 490, 492, 496; 23, 32, 81,Tram 19, 271, 492, 590, 982, 990
Metro: Cipro-Musei Vaticani (A)
See "Tips" for more info