When Aldous Huxley called Leonardo's 1495-97 masterpiece "the saddest work of art in the world," he was not referring the impact of the scene—the moment Christ tells his disciples "One of you will betray me."—but to the fresco's advanced state of deterioration.
It's one of the largest and most ingenious works created by the Ultimate Renaissance Man—but unfortunately, while that man possessed a formidable scientific curiosity he had not the discipline or inclination to experiment with new techniques before trying them out on a large scale.
Leonardo did not paint this scene in buon fresco (painting on wet plaster so the colors bind with the base), but rather experimented with oils on semi-dry plaster. The image started deteriorating even before he was finished, a state not helped when Napoléon's troops used it for target practice, or when World War II bombs ripped off the roof, leaving the room exposed to the elements for three years.
A 21-year restoration finished in 1999 removed centuries of over-painting by hapless early "restorers," and filled in the completely vanished bits with pale watercolor washes. But even the shadow that remains of this great work can teach us volumes about Renaissance ideals.
As was common in that era, the scene decorates the end wall of the refectory, or dining hall, of Santa Maria delle Grazie's adjacent Dominican convent. The work has been a touchstone of Renaissance art from the very beginning, and art students have journeyed here to study it since the day it was finished.
Museo del Cenacolo Vinciano—Santa Maria delle Grazie
Via Giuseppe Antonio Sassi, 3
tel. +39-02-467-6111
legraziemilano.it
Tues-Sun: 10am-6pm
from €17
*** IT IS IMPERATIVE TO BOOK TICKETS IN ADVANCE! ***
Book tickets: Select Italy
Book tour: Viator.com
Reserve tickets: tel. +39-02-9280-0360 or 899-666-805 or +39-02-8942-1146, www.cenacolovinciano.net
Bus: 68; Tram: 18, 24
Metro: Conciliazione or Cadorna
Hop-on/hop-off: Cenacolo (A); Conciliazone (C)
Reserve your entry time as soon as humanly possible—like, five minutes after you book your airfare. I am not kidding. The number of entries is strictly limited, and tickets can sell out weeks, if not months, in advance (mostly snapped up by big tour and bus companies).
For example, I am writing this note update on March 8, and already the only tickets available via the official outlet (www.cenacolovinciano.net) through the end of May are: Mar. 17 at 8:15am and Apr. 19 at 8:15am. That's it. Seriously. Only two entry times in a three-month period. It's insane.
Luckily, there is a private firm, Select Italy, that has (relatively speaking) many more tickets available —9 dates in March, 12 in April, 9 in May... some even with three or four entry times on some days.
OK, sure: sometimes in low season you can waltz right up and get in—but it's far, far, far more common to see people being turned way, crestfallen and upset, by the sign that reads "No more entries today." Why gamble on that happening? Book ahead at Select Italy (www.selectitaly.com) or www.cenacolovinciano.net.
Planning your day: TK.
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Museo del Cenacolo Vinciano—Santa Maria delle Grazie
Via Giuseppe Antonio Sassi, 3
tel. +39-02-467-6111
legraziemilano.it
Tues-Sun: 10am-6pm
from €17
*** IT IS IMPERATIVE TO BOOK TICKETS IN ADVANCE! ***
Book tickets: Select Italy
Book tour: Viator.comc
Reserve tickets: tel. +39-02-9280-0360 or 899-666-805 or +39-02-8942-1146, www.cenacolovinciano.net
Bus: 68; Tram: 18, 24
Metro: Conciliazione or Cadorna
Hop-on/hop-off: Cenacolo (A); Conciliazone (C)