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Lucca sports three excellent trattorias serving up inexpensive, heaping portions of Luccese dishes, including zuppa di farro (emmer soup).
Da Leo
Da Leo is the old-fashioned lunch spot of choice for locals just off the central Piazza San Michele.
Via Tegrimi 1, tel. +39-0583-492-236,
Da Giulio
Huge Da Giulio packs them in for dinner, making up for the lack of decor in with quality cooking and smiling service.
Via Conce 45/Piazza San Donato, tel. +39-0583-55-948.
Pizzeria da Felice (Via Buia 12, tel. +39-0583-494-986, www.pizzeriafelice.it) serves excellent pizza by the slice along with the local specialty flatbreads: cecina, made with chickpeas, and castagnaccio, a chestnut-flour pancake stuffed with sweet ricotta.
At 4:30pm, locals line up at the Art Nouveau take-out window of Amadeo Giusti (Via Santa Lucia 18-20) to snack on Lucca's best pizza bianca (the "white pizza," a.k.a. focaccia, with no sauce or cheese, just a little olive oil and rosemary).
They then take it on their evening passeggiata stroll along shop-lined Via Fillungo, popping into historic 1846 Antico Caffé di Simo (Via Fillungo 58) for an espresso or Campari-soda.
Lucca's specialty is zuppa di farro, a soup made from an ancient, hearty, barley-like grain similar to emmer
Lucca tourism information
www.luccaturismo.it
Tourist info center
Piazza Guidiccioni, 2
tel. +39-0583-91991
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Lucca tourism information
www.luccaturismo.it
Tourist info center
Piazza Guidiccioni, 2
tel. +39-0583-91991