La Scala

Where the fat lady sings—Milan's famous Teatro alla Scala opera house

Milan's premier opera house is where Toscanini twirled his baton, Giuseppe Verdi was once the in-house composer, and Maria Callas trilled her way to fame and fortune.

La Scala has been perhaps the most important opera house in the world since 1778. This is where Verdi, Bellini, Rossini, and Donizetti premiered their works—among them Norma, Nabucco, Madama Butterfly, and Aïda.

Closed frequently (and repeatedly) in recent decades to effect for one restoration after another, it seems to have reopened for good as of December 2005. (If you ask me, they only kept closing it so they could keep staging Grand Reopenings every few years.)

Ricardo Muti has been musical director since 1970, and if you ever doubted opera was art, a night at La Scala will help you transcend that.

The opera season opens December 7—the feast day of Milan's patron Sant'Ambrogio—with a who's-who of local, national, and international politicians and celebrities in attendance on opening night. Not that you or any other lowly member of the public cannot attend, too—though tickets for opening night at La Scala start at €100 (and climb quickly; the cheapest box seats are €500!).

Tickets at La Scala

Tickets for performances of opera, ballet, and symphonic concerts at La Scala range €18 to 30 for the cheap seats (though you can get nosebleed day-of tickets for €9–€15; see below).

Better seats can range as high as €250—or, for the famous opening night, €2,000.

La Scala’s Museum

Even if you don’t come for an opera (highly recommended), you can tour the Museo Teatrale alla Scala, where you can take a whiff of operatic nostalgia for days gone by amid such mementos as Toscanini's batons, a strand of Mozart's hair, a fine array of Callas postcards, original Verdi scores, a whole mess of historic gramophones and record players, and costumes designed by some of Milan's top fashion gurus and worn by the likes of Callas and Rudolf Nureyev on Las Scala's stage.

The museum entrance is at Largo Ghiringhelli 1. It is open daily 9am–noon and 1:30–5:30pm; admission is €7.

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Teatro la Scala
ADDRESS

Via Filodrammatici 2
www.teatroallascala.org
tel. +39-02-88-79-1
(Book tickets online, as telephone bookings ridiculously require you to then fax them a credit card number)

OPEN

Tues-Sun: 10am-6pm
museum: open daily 9am–noon and 1:30–5:30pm

ADMISSION

(free to enter) Order performance tickets: Select Italy
museum: €7
Milano Card: 13% off (35% on Wed)

TRANSPORT

Bus: Tram: 1
Metro: Cordusio (M1), Duomo M1 (M1)
Hop-on/hop-off: Manzoni-Scala (A,B); Castello (A,B,C)

TOURS


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