On the Road with Reid 'Round Ireland: Of Pub Grub and Toasteds and Cakes Made of Guinness (cont'd)

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Pub grub with a view in the clifftop Smuggler's Creek Inn overlooking idyllic Rossnowlagh Beach on the southern coast of Co. Donegal

Beyond the Pub
Frankly, I'd have been happy to dine fine on pub grub my entire trip—keeps you closer to the beer taps, see—but for the occasional lunch where a food-serving pub didn't seem to be at hand, I was happy to dine in a caf,, little sandwich shop, or a handy bakery. After all, sometimes it was nice to go for a bright, airy, and well-lit place as a break from the dark, woodsy, cozy pubs with a fire crackling in one corner and a session (musicians jamming Celtic-style) in one corner.

Sandwiches—carved turkey, ham and cheese, egg salad, the ever-present toasted cheese in plastic—usually go for about €1.30 to €4 ($1.50 to $4.70); giant slabs of quiche and more elaborate dishes €5 to €9 ($6 to $10.60). A cream tea is what we Yanks often think of as "High Tea" or "Afternoon Tea": a pot of the brew served with tiny cakes and scones (with the butter, jam, and clotted cream to spread upon them), and sometimes itty-bitty finger sandwiches. Such a repast usually retails for anywhere from €3.50 to €7.50 ($4 to $8.85) and makes an excellent and refreshing light meal—er, light on the stomach, definitely not in calories.

Whatever you do and whatever you order at one of these shops, save room for dessert. The Irish are inimitable bakers, and their cakes and pies can be exquisite. I'm partial to the death-by-chocolate (and this is one case in which they very nearly mean it) and the apple pie, which usually actually tastes of apples and not just sugar.

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