Nice

Planning a trip to Nice

Know why they call it Provence? Because in the second century BC this became the first Roman "province" on the Barbarian side of the Alps, and while the ancient Greeks might have founded Nice, it was the Romans who made their provincial capital.

Today the tangle of medieval streets picked out with baroque chapels and churchlets that comprise Viuex Nice (the old town) under the park atop Le Chateaux hill (Nice's ancient seat of power), is surrounded by a largely nineteenth century city of art galleries (including museums devoted to Dufy, who painted here awhile, and rotating shows of modern art form the 1960s to today), tony shops, the villa-lined seaside promenade des Anglais, and too much traffic.

Also, for a decent beach you'll have to head up the coast a ways; Nice's beaches are all pebbly and somewhat polluted.

Still, Nice is a convenient and lively homebase for exploring the Côte d'Azur.

A few dining suggestions

La Mère Barale is a famed old joint run by an animated local grandma. Moderate set menu. 39 av. Beaumont (04-93-89-17-94).

La Rotonde is the circus-décor'ed, and considerably cheaper, baby brasserie to the Michelin-starred Chantecler restaurant (same kitchen, though). Moderate prices. In the chic Hotel Negresco, 37 promenade des Anglais (04-93-16-64-00; specify La Rotonde when booking).

 

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